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Beijupirá With Asturias Fish Farming Know-How

01 Sep 2011

Spanish professor leads market study and introduction of farmed-raised fish in Brazil

Asturian specialists employ Spanish culinary savvy in teaching Brazilians how to capitalize on a fish species.

A long trip from Asturias to Fortaleza took Víctor Pérez Castaño on his second visit to Brazil and onto assuming a leading role in a market study about beijupirá. A culinary arts and gastronomy professor at the Instituto de Enseñanza Secundaria (Institute of Secondary Learning) Valle de Aller in Asturias, Pérez Castaño is revolutionizing the way Brazilians eat fish. With the intention of increasing the country’s fish production, Brazil’s Ministry of Fishing and Agriculture has been financing projects in several Brazilian universities to promote fish consumption among Brazilians and stimulate entrepreneurship in the fishing sector.

One of these institutions is the Federal University of the State of Ceará, whose Institute for Maritime Sciences (LABOMAR) has undertaken an investigation to assess and foster technological and market development for the raising in captivity of beijupirá, a fish also known as cobia, which is considered by many a sort of tropical water salmon. LABOMAR is an institution in charge of the study and promotion of fishing and fish products.

Pérez has been invited by LABOMAR to lead the market study and presentation of this fish species in the Brazilian market. Among its various actions, the plans seeks to disseminate the culinary potential of this fish among key industry players, including the documentation of the best manners to prepare and serve it, while simultaneously gathering feedback about consumer preferences with a view to facilitating its commercialization. The comprehensive initiative led by Pérez and implemented throughout July and August encompasses a series of courses for culinary arts students and professionals, and also promotional tastings and dinners at restaurants in the Brazilian cities of Recife, Brasilia and Fortaleza.

The courses have included explanations about the organoleptic traits of the fish, and demonstrations about the handling of different types of cuts for various culinary applications. The recipes were based on eight cooking techniques: raw (sashimi), marinates (ceviche), confit, poaching, frying, baking, grilling, and preparations with sauces. Each recipe and presentation included techniques, sauces and side dishes of Spanish cuisine, like black rice, aioli, romesco and green sauce, along with several others.

At the end of each session, students evaluated which were the culinary techniques that best enhanced the fish, commenting on their texture and flavor, and comparing beijupirá to other fish species, considering its weight and cost.

Tastings were also conducted at several restaurants were diners were also offered fish samples prepared with four different cooking techniques or preparations (sashimi, ceviche, grilled and poached.)

A special presentation for Brazilian media was organized at Restaurante Haná, in the country’s capital. Brazil’s Ministry of Fishing and Agriculture attended one of Pérez’s seminars in Brasilia, and other fish-related government officials, entrepreneurs and distributors of the fish sector also participated in the tastings.

Pérez also made a culinary demonstration at the Ao Vivo Food Show, organized by Brazilian food magazine Prazeres da Mesa in the city of Fortaleza. Here, Pérez made a surf and turf recipe with beijupirá and ram meat. Spanish Chef Sergi Arola also made a presentation at this event. This has been Chef Professor Pérez’s second stay in Brazil in the past two years. Prior to this cobia experience, he offered a series of professional courses that focused on octopus and other seafood products that were not consumed, and in some instances, neither known, in the region.

LABOMAR has invited the Spanish chef and professor to return to Brazil to lead more promotional and research efforts in other cities were fish consumption is still scarce.