Out of Spain

Tertulia

After many years of receiving praise for his Spanish culinary skills used at others restaurants, chef Seamus Mullen is doing his own thing at his own place for a change. Tertulia only recently opened in New York’s West Village neighborhood, but it already has a great buzz and is “thee” place to get in. This is thanks in part to the reputation that proceeded Mullen while he delighted diners in Soho’s Boqueria tapas bar, but also because he has created a great space and a fantastic menu already getting noticed by the New York Times and nearby celebrities, such as Gwenyth Paltrow and Jay Z.

The design is like a great old tapas restaurant or cider house in Northern Spain (Asturias, Basque Country), with plenty of rich woods, colorful exposed brick and dark lighting, which makes for cozy dining and gathering. The menu is also Basque inspired, with generous offerings of different tostas, tapas, entrees and sartenes and of course, plenty of wines to pair the food with.

Of the tostas selection, items such as bellota Ibérico ham, which is acorn-fed Ibérico ham from acorn-fed Ibérico pigs and Cojonudo Revisited, which is two bites of smoked pig cheek, quail egg and pepper, are a rare treat, not to be missed. Overall, there is a good showing of pork and lamb throughout the menu in various forms, but not to be out done is his seafood selections. In fact, Mr. Sifton seemed especially impressed with the use of anchovies and squid.